Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
